Handlooms, once thought to be the grandmother's
attire, have now become the fashion industry's favourite. From rich Benarasi
silks to khadis, every designer in the country is turning to craftsmen for
their collections. Handloom sector provides employment to approximately 5
million people and account for about 95 per cent of the world’s hand-woven
fabrics. It is the second biggest source of employment in rural India.
Considering this GOI has chosen August 7 as National Handloom Day. It is on
this day in 1905 Swadeshi Movement was started.
Dying of the yarn is one of the processes in the
making of handloom. Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing
dyes and other chemicals. The temperature and time controlling are two key
factors in dyeing. Using acid dyes, a wide range of bright shades can be
obtained. These dyes are sodium salts of organic acids (mostly sulphonic acid)
and are applied from acidic medium. Silk yarn is soaked with water and
little amount of coconut oil for about 20 minutes for swelling purpose and then
squeezed to remove excess water. In the tank, water is warmed up to 40degree, to
which the dye is added. About 5 kg of silk is introduced in to the tank and
dyeing is carried out in presence of acid up to 60degree. After dyeing, dye
particles get fixed with the textiles material and unfixed dyes are removed
from it by further washing. Then the silk is squeezed and dried.
There are a few surviving weaver's in the
central Bangalore who are engaged in the process of reeling & dyeing silk
yarn as well as weaving it.
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